Overland Traveller



Sea kayaking in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico (Page 2)

Kayaking with dolphins, Sea of Cortez © Craig FastWildlife
The pièce de résistance of the trip. Manta rays leapt from the sea in front of us and swam in squadrons beneath our kayaks. A pod of bottlenose dolphins swam so close we could almost reach out and touch them. Sea birds of all sorts flew past: pelicans, blue-footed boobies, frigatebirds and osprey. Snorkelling, we spotted a Panamic green moray eel, spotted scorpion fish, puffa fish, snapper and sergeant major fish. Very lucky paddlers sometimes see fin and blue whales but, much as I scanned the horizon, I didn’t spot one.

The guides
The guides were excellent. Two of our three guides were marine biologists by training, one was also a deep sea diver. The third was a long-standing tour guide and whale expert. They all happened to be superb cooks. I especially liked that they were all Mexican with plenty of local knowledge.

Preparing food © Craig FastFood
Again, excellent. Lunch tended towards simple sandwiches and wraps, although ceviche also made an appearance, while dinners were full-on affairs that included parrot fish, chicken in mole sauce, rice, veg and so on followed by a freshly baked cake. Snacks such as tortilla chips and dips, nuts or crackers with cream cheese were served up with cocktails before dinner. Breakfast was usually cooked and preceded by tea, coffee or hot chocolate with last night’s left over cake.

Camping in Loreto Bay National Marine Park, Sea of Cortez © Craig FastAccommodation
Hotels for the nights before and after the expedition were included. Whilst we were paddling, we slept in roomy two-man tents (single travellers slept alone in slightly smaller affairs) with huge screens that allowed for panoramic views of the beach and sea. The provided sleeping bags, liners and Therm-a-Rests were incredibly comfortable – that, combined with all that fresh air and exercise meant lack of sleep was never an issue. In fact, each night I wanted to keep my eyes open to savour the delectable view from my bed, but sleep always won.

Page 1  Page 2  Page 3

Top ten pages on OT
1. Five alternatives to South America's top destinations

2. Hang gliding in Rio de Janeiro

3. Responsible travel on the Inca Trail

4. The Ten Commandments for night bus travellers

5. Touring the Pantanal with the world's most hardcore guide

6. The two month slump: Colca Canyon, Peru

7. Images: South America roundup

8. Images: Panama - San Blas Islands (Kuna Ayala)

9. Video: giant otter eating a caiman

10. Traveller Fishbowl: England

Overland Traveller copyright © Emma Field 2010